Bigboy

Bigboy jazz cafe, located near Jimbocho Station in Tokyo, Japan

Bigboy’s right exterior

Bigboy is a nice and clean jazz cafe in Jimbocho, a district known as “Tokyo’s Book Town” for its reputation of having many old bookshops, rare books, and literary-related institutions. This jazz cafe is nestled right off the big street intersection that sits atop Jimbocho Station, where the Toei Shinjuku, Mita, and Hanzomon subway lines meet. Bigboy is fairly close to the busy intersection, but tucked away in a shallow pocket of alleys. Wind through some turns along a few short streets to find the mostly plain exterior of a small, unassuming shop. This must be it: Covers of recognizable jazz albums peek out from the windows, and some instruments may be overlooking the entrance like over-the-door talismans. You’ve found Bigboy.

Bigboy’s left exterior

Walk into Bigboy and you will immediately notice the tiny, clean interior. Things are organized, tidy, and typical of big-city shops where space is at a premium. The tables are few, and seats can be nearly shoulder to shoulder. The atmosphere is pleasant, lit by artificial spotlights and natural daylight coming through the windows on two right-angled walls that surround the door. These windows also allow views out to pedestrians strolling by and the dynamism of street life, making tangible the border between real life and this jazz haven respite.

Just as immediately, you’ll notice the good and loud jazz music pumping with clarity from two big speakers mounted behind the bar and opposite the door. The barmaster cycles through CDs and LPs in rotation according to mood. A recent time I visited, I was treated to some music from Gigi Gryce: The Rat Race Blues and other hard bop, soulful swinging Blue Note jazz albums.

At a table at Bigboy